Retinol: why your skin reacts at first

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It stimulates the skin's renewal: cells are formed and shed more quickly. Over time, this can contribute to a more even complexion, smoother skin texture and a fresher appearance. But this faster renewal is exactly why the skin reacts at first: it has to get used to the new rhythm.

In the first weeks of using retinol, you may notice:

• Redness
• Dryness and a feeling of tightness
• Flaking or fine peeling
• Burning or stinging when applying it

Sometimes existing fine lines or spots even look more visible for a while – for example because the skin is drier at the moment. This usually settles too once the skin has adjusted.

You can think of the adjustment in three phases:

1. 1

   Reaction: the skin reacts, and the reactions reach their peak.

2. 2

   Improvement: the reactions subside and the skin noticeably improves.

3. 3

   Result: hardly any reactions left; the skin looks healthier and more balanced.

How long the first phase lasts depends on the strength of the product. With an intensive routine, the reactions are stronger but often over after about six weeks. With a mild routine, they are weaker but can drag on over several months. Overall, be patient with a retinol routine – results show over weeks, not overnight.

If the reactions bother you in everyday life, you don't have to give up. Small adjustments usually help:

• Use less product per application
• Apply it less often, for example every second or third evening, and then increase slowly
• Add hydrating and calming care that strengthens the skin
• Pause other irritating products, such as acid exfoliants, while the skin is irritated

And very important: retinol makes the skin more sensitive to light. Apply sun protection consistently every morning – in winter and on grey days, too. More on this in the article Sun protection every day – even in winter?.

Normal reactions are annoying but manageable. Stop and get advice if:

• the skin burns strongly or swells
• blisters or open areas form
• the symptoms don't ease after adjusting your routine

In case of strong or unusual reactions, please see a doctor.

Avoid retinol during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Ask us about it – there are alternatives.

Retinol also plays a role in treatments. Before the Intensive Peel, the skin is prepared for a few weeks with a retinol routine. Shortly before the peel, retinol is paused again. Which routine suits your skin and how best to introduce it gradually, we'll discuss in the skin analysis. Our home-care products are from ZO Skin Health.