Ingrown hairs and razor burn: what helps in the long run

Ingrown hair, razor burn, razor bumps – what's what?

• Ingrown hair: a hair that has been removed grows back, curls round and grows into the skin instead of out of it. The skin reacts to it as it would to a foreign body. A small red or darker bump forms that itches or burns, sometimes with pus. You can often see the hair as a loop under the skin.
• Razor burn: red, burning, irritated skin right after shaving – irritation caused by the blade.
• Razor bumps: lots of small bumps that appear when the short, cut hairs curl back into the skin. In the beard, specialists call this pseudofolliculitis barbae.
• Folliculitis: an inflammation of the hair follicles, usually caused by bacteria entering through small injuries. Shaving is one of the most common triggers.

Why hairs grow in

According to the Mayo Clinic, the most important risk factor is very curly hair: after being cut, it bends back into the skin more easily. That's why hairs in the intimate area and in the beard grow in particularly often. Other factors:

• shaving itself: the blade leaves a sharp, angled tip that pierces the skin more easily – especially if you shave very close or pull the skin taut while shaving
• tweezing, waxing, epilating and threading: regrowing hairs can grow in after these methods too
• friction: tight clothing and skin rubbing against skin encourage irritated and inflamed follicles

Shaved areas are affected most: face and neck, legs, underarms, chest, back and the intimate area.

Shaving properly: avoiding razor burn

Most problems can be reduced with the right technique. These tips come from dermatologists at the American Academy of Dermatology and the Mayo Clinic:

• soften skin and hair first: shave at the end of your shower or place a warm, damp cloth on the area beforehand
• use shaving gel or cream – for sensitive skin, a mild, fragrance-free product
• shave in the direction of hair growth, with few strokes and without going over the same spot several times
• don't pull the skin taut and don't press down hard
• rinse the blade after every stroke, change the blade or disposable razor after 5 to 7 shaves and store it somewhere dry, not in the shower
• not too close: if you keep having problems, you can use an electric trimmer that leaves a little stubble
• afterwards, place a cool, damp cloth on the skin and use a mild, fragrance-free moisturiser
• don't share razors, not even with your partner

For the intimate area, the American Academy of Dermatology also advises: trim standing up so you can see what you're doing, and trim the hair yourself rather than having someone else do it. You can read more about the methods for this area in the article Intimate area: shaving, cream, waxing or laser?

Exfoliation and skincare between shaves

A gentle scrub loosens dead skin flakes that hairs can get trapped under. The Mayo Clinic also mentions lotions with glycolic acid, which gently remove the top layer of skin. Important: only on calm skin, not on fresh razor burn or inflamed areas. Loose, breathable clothing takes the strain off areas where there's a lot of friction.

Ingrown hair: what to do?

• Don't squeeze, scratch or dig. This injures the skin and can lead to an infection. If the area stays irritated for a long time, dark marks or small scars can remain.
• Pause hair removal on that spot until the skin has healed. For folliculitis, the American Academy of Dermatology advises stopping shaving, tweezing or waxing for about 30 days.
• Warm compresses: place a warm, damp cloth on the area for 15 to 20 minutes several times a day.
• If the hair loop is visible right at the surface, according to the Mayo Clinic it can be gently lifted with a sterile needle. Don't pull the hair out while doing so.

Removing an ingrown hair? You shouldn't try to get out a deep-seated or inflamed hair yourself. Many people then reach for a drawing ointment. Ask at the pharmacy whether a product is suitable for that spot. In the intimate area, and with large or very painful inflammation, the spot should be looked at by a doctor.

When to see a doctor?

A single ingrown hair is no cause for concern. You should have it looked at by a doctor if:

• the spot is very painful, hot, red or swollen, or pus is forming
• you have a fever, feel shivery or feel unwell
• the spot doesn't heal or keeps coming back
• dark marks or scars remain
• you're not sure whether it is an ingrown hair at all – something that looks like a spot or bump can also be something else, especially in the intimate area

At a GP or dermatology practice, the hair can be removed under sterile conditions and, depending on the findings, an anti-inflammatory or antibiotic cream can be prescribed – or tablets, if the infection is more severe.

Specifics by area

• Intimate area and buttocks: the hair is coarse and often curly, and underwear rubs against the skin. Loose-fitting cotton underwear helps. Only use hair removal cream if the manufacturer explicitly intends it for this area, and never on mucous membranes.
• Legs and thighs: on such a large area, it's easy to go over the same spot several times. A fresh blade, shaving gel and a few strokes in the direction of hair growth are kinder to the skin; on the inner thighs, there's friction as well.
• Beard: razor bumps mainly affect men with a curly beard. The American Academy of Dermatology is clear about it: growing a beard removes the cause. If you have to shave, you're better off with a trimmer or a gentle technique. More in the article Hair removal for men.

In the long run: shave less often

The simplest prevention is to stop shaving the area. The alternatives:

• Trimming instead of shaving: leaving a little stubble instead of shaving completely smooth takes the strain off your skin.
• Hair removal cream: an option if shaving keeps irritating your skin – test it on a small area first.
• Waxing, sugaring, epilating: the result lasts longer, but ingrown hairs happen here too. You'll find a comparison in the article Waxing, sugaring or laser?
• Laser: the British National Health Service (NHS) also names laser treatment as a longer-term alternative to shaving.

Does laser hair removal help with ingrown hairs?

For many people, this is the real reason for laser hair removal. The honest answer: less hair means fewer hairs that can grow in. And if you shave less often, you irritate your skin less often. The goal is a permanent^¹ reduction – after several sessions, considerably fewer and finer hairs grow back. If you've been shaving every few days, you'll usually notice the difference after the second or third session.

¹ Permanent hair reduction requires several treatments, depending on the body area and the individual hair and skin type. Success cannot be guaranteed, even when the treatment is carried out professionally. On light, red, grey or white hair, the treatment is ineffective or only partially effective.

What the laser is not: it is not a therapy for hairs that have already grown in, and not a treatment for folliculitis. It removes the cause step by step. Three things you should know:

• We don't use the laser on inflamed or irritated skin. In that case, the appointment is postponed until the skin has healed.
• Only shave between sessions, don't tweeze, wax or epilate – the laser needs the hair root. More under Preparation and aftercare.
• The laser does not work on light, red, grey or white hair.

How it works on the bikini line and what each level includes is explained on the page Bikini line laser hair removal.

FAQ

Sources

1. Mayo Clinic: Ingrown hair – Symptoms and causes. mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/ingrown-hair/symptoms-causes/syc-20373893
2. Mayo Clinic: Ingrown hair – Diagnosis and treatment. mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/ingrown-hair/diagnosis-treatment/drc-20373898
3. NHS 111 Wales: Ingrown hairs. 111.wales.nhs.uk/encyclopaedia/i/article/ingrownhairs
4. American Academy of Dermatology: How to shave. aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/hair/how-to-shave
5. American Academy of Dermatology: 6 razor bump prevention tips from dermatologists. aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/hair/razor-bump-prevention
6. American Academy of Dermatology: Folliculitis. aad.org/public/diseases/a-z/folliculitis
7. American Academy of Dermatology: DIY treatment for 5 common beard problems. aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/face/diy-treatment-common-beard-problems
8. American Academy of Dermatology: 7 ways to prevent injuries while trimming pubic hair. aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/hair/trimming-pubic-hair
9. American Academy of Dermatology: 6 ways to remove unwanted hair. aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/hair/remove-unwanted-hair

More articles